Cancer causing chemicals found in synthetic hair products marketed to Black women 

A Consumer Reports study published this month found harmful carcinogens and lead present in popular braiding hair products. 

The US based study found benzene, a harmful carcinogen, in three test samples.

A carcinogen is any substance that can cause cancer.

According to the NHS, benzene is linked to causing acute myeloid leukaemia, a blood cancer, and is also present in petrol and cigarette smoke. 

The study also found lead present in nine of the ten products tested.

The expert who conducted the study said such products could potentially expose a regular user to a “concerning” level of lead.

Consumer Reports said the results indicated which products had comparatively higher levels of harmful chemicals rather than being an assessment of whether a product exceeds a legal standard.

Lead can cause a number of developmental issues and disability in children according to the GOV.com website. The NHS Inform website says that in adults it can also cause a number of issues including miscarriages, premature births, fatigue, memory loss and high blood pressure.

Consumer Reports also found methylene chloride in all the products tested. 

Methylene chloride has been classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer as being “suspected to be cancer causing in humans” and is categorised as a “probable carcinogen”.

Popular brands like Sensationnel (who produce X-pression braiding hair) and Magic Fingers were found to have products containing these ingredients. However, it is unknown if the same versions of these products are sold in the UK. 

Both brands disagreed with the methodology used in the study, stating that it was not representative of consumers’ use of the products. 

Synthetic hair extensions are used in the Black community to create protective hairstyles such as braids, twists and locs. 

These protective styles are worn for long periods of time, with some having them for months, which increases exposure to these carcinogens. 

This investigation comes after a 2022 class action lawsuit in the US against chemical hair relaxer companies.

The lawsuit arose after several studies showed increased rates of illnesses such as cancer as well as infertility among women who used these relaxers. 

These products are again marketed towards and used primarily by Black women, with the Black beauty market estimated at a value of $8.24 billion in 2023 according to Insight Ace Analytic. 

While no cases of cancer development are directly linked towards synthetic hair usage, many people are increasingly avoiding it due to its associations.

One Kingston student said: “I never really thought about what braiding hair was made of, but it’s actually really concerning. I’m always trying to put good things in my body but never actually took a second to think about what I put on my body.” 

Many non-toxic and plant based synthetic hair brands have become increasingly popular in recent years as the Black community moves towards healthier products. 

Brands such as Ruka, Rebundle and Nourie Hair specialise in innovative, plant-based, non-toxic braiding hair. 

Gabrielle, a Bristol University student, said: “I feel like the whole world is against black women sometimes. And if they have found these chemicals, why is no one being warned about it. Surely it has to be a health violation of some kind” 

So, should you be worried? 

There have not been any recorded cases of cancer developing directly from synthetic hair use, so there is no need to panic, but you should be aware of the products you use. 

It is recommended that consumers check product labels for any warnings about irritants or allergens. 

You can also choose to buy human hair or from brands that produce non-toxic or plant based synthetic products. 

You should cease usage of these products if you experience any serious side effects and report them to your GP if you are concerned. 

CR contacted all the brands for comment about the test results. Only two, Sensationnel and Magic Fingers, responded. 

Hair Zone/Sensationnel told Consumer Reports that they were “extremely surprised by the information recently presented to us by Consumer Reports” and strongly disagreed with the methodology and “with the claims Consumer Reports makes about the potential risk to consumers that could arise from the safe and common use of our products.” 

They said: “We unequivocally stand by the safety of Sensationnel products, and our company urges consumers to continue to confidently use Sensationnel products. At Hair Zone/Sensationnel, we pride ourselves on producing the finest quality hair products on the market.”

“As a family-run business with a 35-year history, we value the trust and loyalty of our customers around the world and take the safety of our products seriously. We are constantly evaluating our materials and processes with customer safety in mind.”

Magic Fingers also challenged the test results and methodology, and said that “Magic Fingers is proud of the safe and top-quality hair products we provide to our customers. Our customers know they can count on us for braids and extensions that meet their highest expectations for fashion and performance.”

The company said that CR’s methods “do not fairly match the real-world way that our customers use our Magic Finger products. We strongly stand by the safety of our products and the quality materials used to make them.”

Neither company responded to questions about whether they test their products for lead, VOCs, or other contaminants before they go to market.